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As far back
as I can remember I've dreamed of visiting a lush, tropical paradise.
A land where turquoise water laps the white, powdery, palm tree-lined
beaches. The food is fresh and abundant. The people are handsome yet unpretentious,
the type of sophistication and ease that intuitively relaxes and bends
to the tropics without effort. They welcome me among them. In this place
the setting sun feathers the landscape with a golden brush as the day's
play bridges into twilight, a glass of something fresh and cool by my
private poolside. And finally, while my gaze is fed by the indigo water
searching and retreating from the violet shore, as I begin to dream of
the evening's imminent bounty of fresh foods from sea and vine, I am covered
by an unexpected umbrella of a perfectly clear star-filled night. This
is a place I would never leave. Yes, I know I'm a dreamer, but this is
my dream. As luck would have it, I've actually fallen way short of the
mark. This paradise exists and it is more breathtakingly beautiful than
I've imagined. Even its name carries a warning, a mystery, a tease.
Mustique.
I hesitate to share my dream destination with you but it is too precious
a gem to keep to myself. Those who live there will help me, their dedication
is fiercer even than mine to retain the pristine flora, fauna, and water
of the island that has been respected since the very first home was built
here. Let me tell you more about this island of Mustique. You may have
heard mention over the clink clink of a cocktail party that both Princess
Margaret and Mick Jagger have homes there – a distant picture of
a reserved island assigned to high-profile overly chic vacationing.But
this is only cocktail party talk about a three by one mile island far,
far away. But in my travels there, Mustique showed itself to be a much
more complex and intriguing host – a myriad of activities set on
a backdrop of complete serenity. This is an island of perfect paradoxes:
affluent, relaxed, tranquil, active, undeveloped, social.
The names
"Princess who" and "Jagger what" will soon retreat
to the back of any visitors consciousness, for this island is about nothing
but itself. One does not have to be famous, British, or excessively privileged
to come here. One just has to really want it, and this island will entertain
its visitors with a previously unimagined blend of perfect Caribbean elements.
So come, travel with me for a while to Mustique. A brief, unusually open
conversation with the single other passenger sharing our four seat puddle-jumper
from Barbados passes the 40 minute ride with ease. As our plane approaches
the emerald green island neatly dotted with villas where we will pass
the next week, all talk we've heard is instantly transformed to a tangible
retreat immediately emanating privacy and tranquility.
Touch down
on the well-tended airstrip and we're met by one of the gracious members
of the Mustique Company, the owner/managerial company of the entire island.
We're a bit overwhelmed and somewhat travel weary as competent people
help us collect our baggage, move through the small customs alcove that
marks all small Caribbean islands, and escort us to our villa. Upon entering,
it is immaculate, luminous and undeniably dramatic. The staff, as they
are introduced to us, are sincerely welcoming to this carefully tended
abode. Soon the light, the distant sounds of water, all begin the island's
work of bringing our inner clocks down one tick tock slower. We will be
cared for here for a while, and something nameless is imperceptibly lifted
from our tired shoulders. Glasses of something cool and freshly squeezed
is placed in our hands as we wander outside through an entirely open living
room wall that gives out to white decking, dazzling pool, Caribbean water
beyond. Suddenly it's all clear – in this house, sheets will be of
crisp cotton, towels will be abundant, meals will be created to please
us, sounds will be an orchestra of crickets, waves and warm breeze. This
will be our home here. We will pass lazy afternoons barely moving from
the poolside. We will return here after active days and replenish our
spirit. We could lie down now, could rest here, but let's explore. We
take our car and decide to try that turquoise water on for size.
Thus begins
our journey of days on Mustique. Endeavor Bay, a luscious strip of calm-water
beachfront, offers an excellent dive shop shack where we rent boats and
dive equipment, work with the island's dive master, sunbathe, and swim.
One day we amble up the manicured lawn behind this beach for a lunch at
the Cotton House, one of the only two hotels on the island with a history
a mile long. We're dedicated to snorkeling, but refuse to spend one day
of our vacation time on an "organized˛ boat trip with strangers and
even stranger guides, in search of some distant reef. No fear, Mustique
is here. There's a sweet strip of beach on the west side of the island
where we can walk off, yes walk off to snorkel over a live coral reef
teeming with flamboyant sea life. You laze after awhile on the shore,
I go back in for more. Another day its Macaroni beach for excellent body
surf. Sliding into the shore, I'm struck for an instant by the vague memory
of a photo of a young Mick Jagger playing here in this surf, then I topple
back into the sea for more rides. We visit many of the unique villas available
for rent as we inevitably make first nodding, than conversational aquaintance
with the others, homeowners and visitors, who, as we, are lucky enough
to have found this island.
Many of
the villas have names that speak of their surroundings: Blue Waters, Sunrise,
Stargroves, Windsong. Each was designed and built to integrate with the
surrounding landscape. Architecture and decor ranges from Mediterranean,
to French Provincial, to Balinese, yet each has common upscale tropical
elements in its design: open pavilions, fully open living room walls that
merge with the outer cover patios then onto sunny decking. Always an abundance
of light and air moving through each villa, always a blurred line between
outdoor and indoor spaces. Free use of mahogany, bamboo, teak and tile
throughout. When we do step completely outside into a garden or pool area
we're inevitably met with scents of Hibiscus and vistas of turquoise sea.
We ride horseback on the white sands of Simplicity Bay. (The horseback
riding is perhaps some of the best in all the Caribbean.) We play tennis
on the excellent courts that are for the use of all villa guests. Somehow
there's always a game to be had and never a wait. A small disaster, you
stub your toe on a coconut. It's solved, there is a well-equipped medical
clinic to provide the care. We tuck it into the back of our minds, we
are cared for here.
Basil Charles'
bar is famous. Suspended out over the water on stilts, he seems to understand
that after the day's water play his guests can't bare to be separated
too far from the sea. We've taken our dinner al fresco near the pool at
our villa on the ocean deck for nights, and Basil's has been our meander-down
nightly after-dinner spot. But tonight it's Wednesday, that's "Barbecue
Jump Up" night, and we're eating dinner here. Somehow we're included
in this torch- lit bounty of grilled Caribbean lobster, fresh fish, and
Creole specialties accompanied by live music and dancing. This combination
of sumptuous food, tropical cocktails, and Calypso music adds up to a
fairly lively party open to all the island's visitors, with dancing late
into the night. Much later, as we find our way back to our villa (which
we have grown to regard somewhat proprietarially), you fall easily into
the chaise that has come to be your favorite in the evenings. I find mine.
The lap
of the Caribbean waves can be heard off our verranda, and for the life
of me I can't hear a single tick of my inner clock. We both strech, and
sigh, and silently let our minds drift over tomorrow's bounty of possibilities.
And looking up, tonight again, I am totally surprised by the most amazingly
unexpected umbrella of crystal clear stars.
NOTES
ON MUSTIQUE : VILLAS:
All of the 43 villas available for rental on the island reflect the vastly
different but somehow always tasteful architectural & decor preferences
of each owner. Each villa rental includes full staff of a maid, a gardener
and a cook. A good quality car is included in every rental property. All
of these amenities, other than gratuities to show your inevitable pleasure
with the amicable and hardworking staff, are included in the rental fee
of the villa
TRANSPORT
TO THE ISLAND: Mustique Air flies from Barbados daily to and from
the island. Flights take approximately 45 minutes and aircraft accommodate
four-nine people. November will mark the beginning of American Eagle flights
from Puerto Rico.
WEATHER:
Enjoying its location in the warm Caribbean waters 105 miles west of Barbados,
Mustique, one of a chain of islands called the Grenadines, is tucked safely
below the hurricane belt, and directly in line for the warm trade winds.
Mid-December through April is the drier season, May through November rainy,
still good vacationing despite occasional showers.
SAFETY:
Mustique is one of the few Caribbean islands that is crime free.
ENTERTAINMENT/DINING:
Basil's Bar, for drinks, and casual fare, including Wednesday Jump Up
night. The Cotton House, one of the last remaining vestiges of the sugar
plantations, was converted to an inn in 1969 and is the only real "hotel"
on the island offering standard hotel fare of rooms and dining. The Firefly
Inn now also rents as a villa or as a small inn. There is wonderful dining
at the Firefly nightly, offering another dining alternative along with
the Cotton Club, Basil's and your villa chef. Johannas is excellent, thank
goodness, because it's the only ice cream shop on the island. (How many
does one need after all.) The Pink & Purple Boutiques offer either casual
tee-shirt or high-end fashion. You choose.
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